I’m going to start with a disclaimer. Justin and I L-O-V-E Porto Venere. It’s just a short 20-minute drive from La Spezia and it’s one of our favorite places to go for hiking, swimming, or when we have visitors.
In this post, I’ll share with you the highlights of Porto Venere including:
- History and cultural highlights of Porto Venere
- Where is Porto Venere and how to get there
- Things to do in Porto Venere
- What to eat
- Where to stay
- When to visit
A Little About Porto Venere
So, let’s dive into Porto Venere (or Portovenere, as you may often see it written). This atmospheric medieval town is located between Cinque Terre and La Spezia, in the Gulf of Poets (also known as the Gulf of La Spezia).
Porto Venere is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This honor is shared with Cinque Terre and the nearby islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, and underscores its historical significance and breathtaking scenery.
The ancient town has a picturesque harbor and is set against the backdrop of a castle fort (Doria Castle) and the abrupt hillside landscape of the Porto Venere Natural Park. The marina extends around the bay and to the north of the town is a stretch of sandy beach.
For visitors spending time here, you’ll be kept busy because the hills, the sea, and the little town offer an unforgettable experience for tourists! Even so, Portovenere can be easily explored in one day.
As a bonus, Portovenere can be used as a base for visiting Cinque Terre and the Ligurian Riviera.
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Getting to Porto Venere
Portovenere is easy to get to from La Spezia. There is no train station. But it’s accessible by car, taxi, bus, and public ferry.
There are also many memorable boat tours from La Spezia that include a stop at Portovenere and a tour of the Gulf of Poets area.
We have more details in our comprehensive article covering transport and parking options.
Things To Do in Porto Venere
Historical Attractions
Portovenere has a rich history and many ancient buildings and monuments that can be discovered in a day's outing. You can do one of our self-guided itineraries or book a short walking tour with a local guide.
- San Pietro Church: The famous Porto Venere church is perched on a rocky headland and stands out with its distinctive Gothic black-and-white stripes. Built on the ruins of a 6th-century church, it has stunning views of the Ligurian Sea.
On the right: Justin making a fashion faux-pax and dressing like the church LOL!
- Medieval Old Town: Tucked in behind tall tower houses, is the historic town. The main part of town is strung along the carugio (laneway), which is distinctive of old towns in Liguria. The carugio is a place to cool down from the summer heat and has many interesting local shops and great local restaurants, and eateries.
- Doria Castle: Dominating the skyline, Porto Venere castle dates back to the 12th century and offers a 180° view of the sea and the village below. Inside the grounds, you have the chance to wander around the rustic gardens and appreciate the strength and beauty of this medieval fortress.
- Byron’s Grotto: Named after the poet Lord Byron, this picturesque spot is an inviting place for a swim. When you walk through the archway to Byron’s Grotto (close to the headlands at San Pietro Church) it opens out onto a cove with lazy sunbathers, swimmers, and boats bobbing around in the aquamarine waters.
Did you know? It is said that Lord Byron visited the area and swam across the Gulf of La Spezia from Porto Venere to Lerici to visit his poet friends, Mary and Percy Shelley. In fact, many famous poets found inspiration here, and it’s only fitting that the Gulf of La Spezia is commonly known as the Gulf of Poets.
You may know Mary Shelley as the author of Frankenstein.
Want to get the most out of your day trip to Portovenere?
Our affordable, easy-to-use ‘One Day in Portovenere’ premade itinerary will treat you to all Portovenere has to offer – stress-free!
Despite its beauty and significance, Portovenere remains somewhat off the beaten path and overlooked by many who flock to Cinque Terre.
For the more attentive traveler, the culture, history, atmosphere, and scenery will exceed your expectations.
Cultural Highlights
- Seafood Delicacies: Being a coastal town, Porto Venere’s seafood is top-notch. Try the local anchovies, mussels, and, of course, seafood pasta.
- Local Crafts: Take some time to explore shops selling traditional crafts, such as ceramics and home textiles. These handmade items make for great souvenirs to remember your trip or gifts for friends and family.
- Festivals and Events: The town comes alive during summer with local events including an outdoor cinema, markets and food and music festivals.
Local Event: Don’t miss the Byron Cup! Usually held on the 3rd weekend of July, swimmers complete the route from Porto Venere to Lerici across the Gulf of Poets.
This extraordinary swimming event pays homage to Lord Byron, who is said to have made the crossing in 1822.
Natural Beauty
- Picturesque Harbor: The colorful houses lining the harbor are straight out of a postcard. Enjoy the view from a local cafe or restaurant while savoring some fresh seafood.
- Porto Venere Natural Park: This is probably our main reason for visiting Porto Venere so often. There are dozens of hiking trails around this area and some cut along the coast for eye-popping panoramas.
Some of the trails are also suitable for cyclists, but access would be via the SP530 and not from the stairs leading out of town.
- UNESCO World Heritage Site: The best way to visit the area is either on foot (hiking the ancient trails) or by boat.
Most boat trips leave from La Spezia marina and tour around the Gulf of Poets. Some stop at the villages and give you time to explore. If you’re short on time, then Sirius Tours runs a full-day tour that explores the entire gulf, including a sightseeing stop at both Portovenere and Lerici. This tour is affordable and includes snacks, drinks and a passionate captain eager to share local historical anecdotes.
Otherwise you can use the hop-on hop-off Gulf of Poets ferry to do a self-guided tour.
The UNESCO site stretches for 15 km along the eastern Ligurian coast between Levanto and La Spezia. The designation includes Porto Venere, the three islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto as well as the 5 towns of Cinque Terre (Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).
Activities & Things To Do in Porto Venere
- Palmaria Island: Just a short boat ride away, Palmaria Island is perfect for a day trip. It’s the largest island in the area where you can enjoy rugged hiking trails and pebbly beaches.
We did the circular coastal hiking trail in late 2023. The views back from Palmaria to Porto Venere made the steep ascent worth it. And after about 3 hours of hiking, we sat on the beach and enjoyed a simple picnic looking out at the wide open sea. It felt like a thousand miles from civilization. And yet the island is just a few minutes by boat from Porto Venere!
If hiking isn’t your thing, then Palmaria has a couple of nice beaches and restaurants, including the renowned Locanda Lorena that serves gourmet seafood dishes against the backdrop of Portovenere.
Getting Around: The local boat from Portovenere to Palmaria leaves from the small port close to the historic center (in front of Trattoria della Marina). A round-trip ticket costs around 5 Euros per person.
But be careful; there are only a few crossings each day and the last boat returns to Portovenere in the early evening!
- Boating: This coastline is most spectacular when seen from the sea. There are lots of boat trips from La Spezia that include a stop at Porto Venere.
I had a friend visit from Australia, and we took a boat trip from La Spezia over to Cinque Terre. As we rounded the corner and approached Portovenere, everyone’s phones shot up, and there was a chorus of “Wows”. The same happened as we skimmed through the channel around the headlands of the San Pietro Church.
- Beaches: To the northern end of the marina, there is a stretch of sandy beach with access to clear and refreshing water. Whether you’re into sunbathing, swimming, or snorkeling, Porto Venere’s beaches won’t disappoint.
- Open Water Diving: Diving is one of several water-based activities that you can do from Porto Venere. For divers, there are several sites for exploration close to and around the UNESCO area that includes coral gardens, caves, and shipwrecks.
If you’re staying in Porto Venere, then it’s also possible to find boat excursions departing from the little port near the old town.
Some of these boat tours include food or swimming stops. Others will include a cultural experience to explore Cinque Terre, the three islands (Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto), or even the local mussel farms.
Restaurants in Porto Venere
There are dozens of restaurants in Porto Venere. For such a small town it has a surprisingly good selection of food options. Of course, the best restaurants in Porto Venere are usually less prominent.
We obviously haven’t eaten at all the restaurants, but I can share a few recommendations.
For something special:
I recommend Casamare Porto Venere. This is a stylish new restaurant serving modern seafood with uninterrupted views out onto the water.
For an authentic Italian experience:
To pay homage to Ligurian food in a welcoming atmosphere, try Osteria Carugio in the old town.
For no-fuss all day food and drinks:
Al Gabbiano has a menu of classic pizzas and pasta. They make simple foods well enough and at a decent price and have good harbor views.
For a quick bit to eat:
Focacceria Portovenere makes delicious focaccia and pastries for food on the go. They have little shops in both the old town and across from the main beach.
For coffee and gelato:
Bar Moon is close to the port. Sit and relax in the shaded patio and enjoy a pretty good coffee and very good gelato.
During summer the Porto Venere restaurants get busy. If you can’t make a booking ahead of time, then you may have to wait or try a few places. Most restaurants in Porto Venere will try and accommodate walk-ins but be prepared for disappointment.
Read some of our other blog posts to find our foodie recommendations.
Porto Venere Accommodation
Types of Accommodation in Porto Venere
This small town has a couple of hotels, some guest houses, and lots of apartments for rent, but overall accommodation options in Porto Venere are limited and can be expensive (for the quality).
Also, consider that most places won’t have parking and Porto Venere doesn’t have a train station. All these factors make it a difficult option and consequently, many tourists visit for the day and stay in La Spezia.
However, it is possible to find good accommodation in Porto Venere if you book ahead.
Costs of Hotel in Porto Venere
A typical room during July and August will be around 150 Euros per night. For something a little more special, expect to pay around 300 euros.
If money isn’t an object, then the 5-star Grand Hotel Portovenere is around 600 Euros per night for a room and a sea view.
Travel Tip: Between June and September, the Venus Bar terrace at the Portovenere Grand Hotel is the stage for a series of live music events, signature cocktails, and dinner tastings.
It’s a special place to enjoy sipping a cocktail whilst admiring the stunning vista of Portovenere and Palmaria Island!
Portovenere is also home to Capitolare Tower which is the oldest tower in the world used as accommodation. This 900 year old tower has been meticulously restored and is a luxurious place to stay.
Travel Tip: Around Europe, we use Booking.com for the best rates and easy booking with low fees. Their cancellation policy is usually also very good.
Airbnb is also useful, especially if you prefer to stay in an apartment. However, canceling with Airbnb usually incurs their service fee, which can be quite expensive.
Where to Stay in Porto Venere
The most convenient places to stay are located around the old town, the port, the marina, and the beach.
There are also some places along the SP530. These aren’t super convenient, but the local bus passes along this road and there are also some staircases that connect the road with the beach and marina.
Anything to the west of these areas will be in the hills (which are very steep) and not always accessible by car. If you have heavy luggage, then this could pose a problem!
For hikers and adventurers, there are also places in the hills like the Rifugio Muzzerone that provide simple beds and rustic food.
When Is the Best Time to Visit?
Depending on what you plan on doing, the months between late March and early October offer the best weather.
Summer in Italy can get hot and busy, but it's also when everything is open and there's a buzz of activity.
If you want warm weather (without crowds) then an enjoyable time to take a trip here is during May, June, and September when daytime temperatures are around 18-25oC (64-77oF).
It never gets too cold here. In fact, we do some of our best hiking and cycling during the Autumn, Winter, and Spring months.
We wait for dry weather, and it is often warm enough to be hiking without heavy winter clothing. During this time of the year, the views can be staggering, and we feel especially lucky to have all this (literally) on our doorstep!
To Sum It Up!
Porto Venere has it all! It’s a magical place to visit and offers a wide range of attractions for tourists.
It’s easily accessible by boat, and with its Mediterranean climate, it’s an inviting destination year-round.
Whether for history, scenery, or cuisine, Porto Venere promises an unforgettable Italian experience.
