When you think of La Spezia, you may picture a port town and a gateway to Cinque Terre. However, this vibrant city also boasts delicious Ligurian cuisine and a bustling restaurant scene, catering to a diverse range of tastes.
Here’s my guide to Ligurian food specialties to try when you’re in La Spezia.
Seafood - Enjoy it!
La Spezia’s cuisine draws on Liguria’s breathtaking sea, crafting wonders from fresh seafood.
Anchovies - La Spezia’s Seafood Treasure
Anchovies (acciughe) are an opportunity to taste La Spezia’s culinary history. Way back in history, this town started as a fishing village, and anchovies would have been a staple food. Caught fresh in the Ligurian Sea, they arrive marinated, baked, or fried into salty perfection.
Food for Thought: For centuries, anchovy fishing has been a livelihood along the Ligurian coast. Thanks to the Gulf of La Spezia’s calm waters, anchovy shoals were abundant, making this little fish both an accessible food source and an important trade product.
Where to try: Head to Trattoria La Nuova Spezia for a variety of seafood dishes at an authentically local restaurant (a little off the beaten path). Or visit Osteria All’inferno, the city's oldest cellar-restaurant, where anchovies meet historic atmosphere.
Stuffed Mussels “alla Spezzina”
Known locally as muscoli ripieni, stuffed mussels are one of La Spezia’s signature dishes. The mussels are filled with a mixture of breadcrumbs, Parmesan, garlic, parsley, and sometimes mortadella, before being baked in tomato sauce. It’s hearty, flavorful, and pure comfort food.
Food for Thought: It’s unusual for Mortadella to be found in traditional recipes outside of Emilia-Romagna (where it originates). But this filling is a historical relic, introduced into the dish when Mortadella was traded for salt between ancient Ligurian and Emiliano-Romagnoli merchants!
Where to try: Locals love Osteria Giobatta for their muscoli ripieni. Or if you’re in the nearby Portovenere, I recommend trying them at Il Timone.
Another authentically local restaurant (a little off the beaten path) where you’ll find mussels done in a variety of ways is La Nuova Spezia.
You can find more food & drink recommendations by exploring our blog articles.
Savory Dishes
Mesciua - The Local Soup
If there’s one dish that really belongs to La Spezia, it’s mesciua. This humble soup, whose name means “mixture,” is made with chickpeas, beans, and spelt (a type of grain). Drizzled with Ligurian olive oil, it’s a warming, nourishing dish that reflects the city’s maritime and farming roots. Originally eaten by workers at the port, mesciua is now a proud local specialty. I like it on a cold day, eaten with chunks of fresh bread.
Where to try: Look for it on the menu at Trattoria La Carabaccia on Via Roma, where the recipe stays true to tradition. It’s also found on the menu at Osteria All’inferno.
Coniglio alla Ligure (Ligurian Style Rabbit)
Rabbit has been a staple of Ligurian kitchens for generations, and Coniglio alla Ligure is the signature rabbit dish of the region. The rabbit is typically cut into pieces and cooked slowly with olives, pine nuts, rosemary, garlic, and sometimes a splash of white wine. The result is tender, fragrant meat with a savory, slightly nutty sauce that is served with polenta or roasted potatoes.
Where to try: Look for this dish in traditional trattorias in La Spezia. But for something a bit more fancy, head to Osteria Della Corte (an elegant gourmet restaurant at the northern end of the old town), where you can often find rabbit on the menu.
Pesto & Trofie Pasta
Liguria is the birthplace of pesto alla Genovese, and La Spezia does it justice. The bright verdant sauce of basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan, and olive oil is often paired with trofie, a twisted handmade pasta. It’s a dish that tastes like Liguria in every bite.
Where to try: I’ve recommended Vicolo Intherno previously for their flavorful seafood pasta dishes. But their Trofiette al Pesto topped with stracciatella is a fresh and creamy must-try!
If you just can’t get enough pesto, then you’ll love learning how to make it using the traditional pestle and mortar method. These classes are popular with tourists, and you get to eat your creation!
Focaccia & Farinata
Forget plain bread – whilst in Liguria, you have other options:
- Ligurian focaccia is golden, chewy, and generously drizzled with olive oil. Some versions are topped with onions, tomatoes, cheese, or even anchovies.
- Another staple is farinata, a thin, baked chickpea pancake that’s slightly crispy on the outside and soft inside.
Where to try: Focaccia is inexpensive and moreish and can be found in most bakeries around town, such as Nonna Zulla’s on Corso Cavour and Fratelli di Teglia near the public gardens. For farinata, head to the legendary La Pia Centenaria. You can dine in a casual seating, or you can grab a slice to take out as you wander the streets of La Spezia.
Panigacci
Panigacci are a lesser-known bread specialty from the Lunigiana area, just inland from La Spezia. They’re simple, round flatbreads made from flour, water, and salt, traditionally cooked in terracotta dishes over an open fire.
Eaten hot, they’re usually served with cured meats, cheeses, or pesto, making them the perfect rustic meal to share at the table.
Where to try: My favorite restaurant to eat Panigacci is at WOW Panigacci, on Via del Prione. This gets booked out at weekends, and it has a lively, convivial atmosphere – perfect for small and large groups.
Testaroli
Testaroli is considered one of the oldest types of pasta in Italy, dating back to Roman times. It is from Lunigiana, the inland area close to La Spezia, and you’ll often find it on menus in and around the city because Lunigiana’s food culture is closely tied to La Spezia’s.
Although it's a type of pasta, in my experience it has a soft airy texture that is closer to a pancake. The most traditional way to enjoy Testaroli is with pesto, but you'll also find it served with a light tomato sauces. I can't say it's a must-try, but it is an interesting part of the area's culinary history.
Sweet Treats
Torta di riso dolce
This is a traditional sweet rice cake from the La Spezia area, simple and comforting, often flavored with lemon or a hint of liqueur.
Limoncino Desserts
Liguria’s terraced lemon groves inspire plenty of sweets – from torta al limoncino, a soft lemon liqueur sponge cake, to refreshing lemon tarts. If you see anything with lemon on a menu in La Spezia, it’s worth trying.
Where to try: For indulgent cakes and pastries, stop at La Casina (near the food markets). This trendy café is setting a high foodie bar from morning until late at night! You’re sure to find something sweet and lemony, even if it’s not strictly traditional.
Gelato – A Must in Italy
No trip to Italy is complete without gelato, and La Spezia has some excellent options. While you’ll find classics like pistachio and stracciatella everywhere, locals love flavors inspired by Liguria itself – basil, lemon, or even honey-lavender.
Where to try: Gelateria Vernazza is a well-known go-to in both Cinque Terre and La Spezia. For a friendly local welcome, Gelateria La Dolce Vita (near the waterfront) is a favorite and offers creative flavor combos like cheesecake and lemon. Yum!
Wines of Liguria
La Spezia sits in the heart of Liguria’s wine country. The steep hillsides of Cinque Terre produce crisp, mineral-rich whites that pair beautifully with seafood. Two must-try wines:
- Vermentino – (my favourite white in the region) is a crisp, aromatic white wine; it’s fresh, zesty, and pairs beautifully with seafood dishes! This is often served as the house wine in local restaurants.
- Cinque Terre DOC – Dry, aromatic white wine made on the terraces above the sea.
- Sciacchetrà – A rare, sweet dessert wine, golden in color and rich in flavor. Perfect with cheese or pastries.
Where to taste: Visit Enoteca Cinque Sensi in La Spezia for local wines, or try the house wine at any traditional trattoria – it’s usually local and always good. For a truly local experience, I like to recommend Rosa Blu – a tiny wine bar down a small laneway off Corso Cavour.
There are also wine tastings in La Spezia and in nearby Cinque Terre.
Final Thoughts
Ligurian food is celebrated with gusto in the small city of La Spezia. The Ligurian food served here is proudly authentic and pays homage to the city and region’s history.
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